Belgian Dark Strong fermentation .... Options?

[EagleDude]

I brewed 10 gallons of a Belgian Dark Strong (BDS) three weeks ago with a 1.095 OG, split the batch, and added WLP 530 Abbey IV (4 vial equivalent) to five gallons and Wyeast 1762 Belgian Abbey II (4 bag equivalent) to the other. After two weeks, the FG in the WLP 530 was 1.030, so I decided to give them another week and move them into the 68 degree house. I believe the garage temps dropped too much for my frigerator/fermentor to keep a 68 to 72 degree temp (no heating mechanism). After letting the carboys sit for another week, I have a BDS WLP 530 with a FG of 1.029 and a BDS Wyeast 1762 with a FG of 1.018.

No questions asked, I'll keg the Wyeast BDS, carbonate, and start drinking after a little aging. Now what do I do with the WLP batch? Should I transfer off the yeast, make a WLP001 starter, then pitch at high krausen? ... or ... Is it finally time to add some "bugs" to one of my beers? If "Bugs", I'm leaning towards B. Lambicus or B. bruxellensis. Any suggestions?

[Billy Klubb]

rouse that sumnabitch! maybe transfer and add a small amount of sugar.

[s.kirby]

dude,

the 530 is from phoenix, it likes it warm--80's...not 68 like you northern boys.

[brewinhard]

Definitely try rousing your yeast by giving it a good swirl or two to resuspend those guys. Do your best also to warm it up a tad into the low 70's or so and see if fermentation continues, even if it is slow. After a few days, if you see nothing, then you could always rehydrate some dry champagne yeast ( a neutral one, like Lalvin EC-1118) and add that to the brew to see if a few more points could be eaten up. Don't be afraid to get the temps up to the mid 70s or so like said above.

If all of this fails, I would add Brett L. (from WY) as it will impart sour cherry like aromas/flavors into your beer and help to lower your FG. You will just have to be patient and give it some time (6 mos or so). I would highly recommend kegging this and adding the brett if possible, or just be sure to remove the beer from its primary yeast cake before aging long term.

[EagleDude]

Since I have 5 gallons of a really well attenuated BDS, I'm opting for adding the B. lambicus. The beer is currently at 8.5% alcohol .... do I need to make a starter for the brett or can I just add it directly after I transfer off of the original yeast cake?

[brewinhard]

If one is really attenuated and the other is still high, why don't you blend the two and package them? That should even them both out if you are interested. If you still want to add the brett (and I know I would ), then simply rack the beer into a secondary vessel (I prefer kegs for this) and add your brett (no starter) into the beer without splashing. If you do go the keg route, be sure to purge the keg every few weeks to relieve the pressure built up from the slow fermentation. Give this beer at least 4-6 mos before tasting and packaging. Longer is better.

[EagleDude]

If one is really attenuated and the other is still high, why don't you blend the two and package them? That should even them both out if you are interested. If you still want to add the brett (and I know I would ), then simply rack the beer into a secondary vessel (I prefer kegs for this) and add your brett (no starter) into the beer without splashing. If you do go the keg route, be sure to purge the keg every few weeks to relieve the pressure built up from the slow fermentation. Give this beer at least 4-6 mos before tasting and packaging. Longer is better.

Well, I really like the one that is fully attenuated and don't want to mess it up. I've wanted to do a sour but have not taken that leap yet (different everything after the bug addition). I was planning on transfering to a 5 gallon carboy, but could just as easily transfer to a keg. What are the benefits of doing it that way ... easy gravity readings, tastings, and one less container to purge? Do I not need to worry about excessive amount of brett sediment? Do I need to worry about autolysis with brett? Do you let off the pressure to keep the brett active? Will it not finish off if I don't releive the pressure?

Just a few thoughts.

[brewinhard]

Don't worry about the brett sediment as it will eat itself over time once the sugars run out. But in such a high gravity beer with lots of residual sugars this will NOT be a problem. You probably don't have to relieve the pressure, but every now and then it might be wise as the brett eat up the sugars this will increase the carbonation slowly. Autolysis with brett will not occur as I metioned above especially in the time frame with which your beer will finish. Think of years old lambics that sit on their primary yeast cake. No autolysis in those. In fact, the ruptured cells actually help to nourish the brett and bacteria over the long aging process.

Kegs are an easy way to go for the reasons you mentioned. Easy to just pull some off a tap (separate from others since it is for brett) and take a taste or for gravity readings, plus they are easy to purge for the long aging. With your remaining sugars, i would bet that the brett would have your BDS in good form within 4-6 mos.