Beer Forum

Okay, I do small batch and I have been using 500ml PET bottles for bottling.
They have screw on caps, which I have been reusing several times.

I usually include a bit of Carapils or wheat malt, depending on style.
I add the calculated corn sugar to 2.5 - 2.8 depending on style.
I have tried blending in a bottling bucket, and also have tried adding directly to each bottle.
After 7-10 days they are usually hard when squeezed, IE carb'd.
But, lots of trub in bottle, and inconsistant carbonation.
I recently had a farmhouse wheat ale, that was very inconsistant, some were very flat, no carb.

I would like to get better consistancy in my carbonation, along with clarity.

Is there a way to filter, then carbonate, then bottle?
I assume I would add a small amount, maybe 2-3 grams of dry yeast when I blend and bottle?
If I start cold crashing, then is adding yeast is even more important? Is it vital?

I was thinking of using "The Carbonator" and 2L bottles to carbonate, then transfer to the bottles with some type of beer gun.
Would that work? Would releasing the pressure to bottle hold enough CO2 in suspension?

It is important that the beer has fermented to completion. If the beer is bottled with a lot of unfermented sugars to begin with and then you add bottling sugar, it will be over carbonated.
If you go directly from your primary fermenter you will have a lot of dregs at the bottom of the bottle.
It is important to stir gently but thoroughly, the bottling sugar into solution for consistant carbonation.
You must bottle condition in mild temperatures like 65f-70f. for proper carbonation. If it is too cold the yeast will not perform properly.
What I do is ferment completely, transfer to secondary to clear, bottle and add one carbonation drop to each bottle, cap and place in a space in the house that is dark and around 65f. for two weeks minimum.
Hope this is helpful.
mark
www.backyardbrewer.blogspot.com
www.thebackyardbrewer.com

Have you tried using carb tabs? They are easy and you just drop a tab into the bottle.

http://morebeer.com/view_product/15473/ ... tion_Drops

You shouldn't have to add any yeast if you bottle at the proper time. After fermentation and floculation your beer should still have plenty of yeast in suspension to bottle condition, IMO.

I always bottle condition. Here is the process I have been using for a few years:

-Ferment to completion in my ONLY fermenter, allow beer to clear (10 to 21 days depending on yeast)

-Boil priming sugar in a cup of water

-Add priming sugar to bottling bucket

-Siphon completed beer into bottling bucket

-Bottle

-Leave bottles out of direct light at room temp for 2-4 weeks.

-Take bottles down to 55 - 65degF basement

-Drink.

From what I have heard you can cold-crash the fermenter and prime bottles without adding yeast, but if you filter then you will have to add more yeast. Search for Sierra Nevada's spec on yeast concentration for bottle priming after filtering.

yeah bottle condition if not kegging.

basically same process as brewmatt, but I use growlers / bombers and depending on style and yeast they get more or less time in a 65-75*F room to condition. Then cold conditioned for 1-2 weeks.