Beer Forum

Can someone tell me where I can find information on creating CO2 disconnects on the outside of my kegerator. I have a dual regulator and a 10# CO2 canister and they just aren't going to fit in my Sanyo 4917 with 2 kegs.

Pretend I'm completely ignorant on the subject (no pretending necessary) and tell me what I need to buy. If you can give me links to the items from Northern Brewer, that would be even better... I have an order I need to place with them soon.

Also, if you have any links to how-tos that would be great too. If you have a link to someone who has done this to a Sanyo 4917, a 6er of my next batch will be on its way to your door step. I've searched and searched and come up dry.

I have always used these
http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/me ... gory_Code=
with the matching male piece (7F457).

ajdelange wrote:I have always used these
http://rapidswholesale.com/Merchant2/me ... gory_Code=
with the matching male piece (7F457).

This looks very close to what I'm looking for, but it doesn't look like it has enough space to fit between the kegerator walls?

No, it doesn't. What you do is run a piece of line through the wall (in a small piece of PVC pipe if you like) sealing the through with that expanding foam you can buy at Home Depot or similar stores. The male fitting hangs on the tubing on the outside end. A female fitting goes on the line from the regulator. If you have multiple CO2 bottles (each with its own regulator and female disconnect) and multiple kegs these are handy because you can plug any keg into any bottle.

Bulkhead fitting in door, gives you two female pipe ends, then use a pipe to barb fitting on the interior, and pipe to ANY pneumatic coupler on the outside, brass or stainless, nitrile seals. I have always wondered why we homebrewers do not venture outside of the norm when it comes to pneumatic couplers. The corny keg ball and pin lock fittings are inferior compared to even a standard industrial interchange pneumatic coupler.......

OK - off my soap box.........

All fittings above, 3 total. Just as an option

Bulkhead; http://www.mcmaster.com/#brass-pipe-fittings/=5g9egw
Barb to pipe; http://www.mcmaster.com/#brass-pipe-fittings/=5g9evc
Coupler to Pipe; http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconne ... gs/=5g9feo

So, run the one CO2 line into this system, with the tees to the kegs on teh interior of the fridge. I managed to get 2 kegs and the 5 Lb CO2 bottle into my fridge, but you are lucky to have a bigger bottle. Do you have 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16" gas lines? I may be able to help you out with some fittings if you wish. Let me know what your tubing is for the gas side. Keep the check valve in the outlet of the regulator, if you have one.

Kbar wrote:...Do you have 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16" gas lines? I may be able to help you out with some fittings if you wish. Let me know what your tubing is for the gas side.

I've got 5/16 ID gas line that came with my kit. Thanks for the bulkhead specs... I knew there had to be something like that. Help with the fittings would be great.

I got the 10# bottle as a free upgrade from KegConnection.com. Those guys are awesome (10% discount right now, too!). No I don't work there.

As for your rant, I do sort of feel like the connections for the corny keg fittings are sort of chintzy. They never feel like they get a great seal like I do with gas connectors for my air compressor. Could be in my head, especially considering they don't seem to be leaking, but it's nice to hear someone else thinks that.

I just drilled a hole in the side of my fridge and shoved the co2 line through it. No disconnects at all.

Push Eject wrote:I just drilled a hole in the side of my fridge and shoved the co2 line through it. No disconnects at all.

Right... that is essentially what I can already do with the drain hole that is already there, but I'd like to make it a little nicer.