My new best friend...Mr. Kegerator with pics

Tue May 06, 2008 8:12 am

Made the leap and got myself a brand new kegerator. Don't have a clue what I'm doing but I look good doing it. Whatever it is I'm doing.... so the wife says...ANYWAY..
need your help here.
This model came with a CO2 bottle that can be attached ont he back and has a little slot for the tube to go into the kegerator. The guy that sold it to me said he would set me up with the soda keg tubing, the original came with the commercial keg setup, so when I got it, all the tubing was attached to the regulator already. It is my understanding that my regulator is on the outside attached the the co2 bottle and the tubing then goes inside the kegerator.
I think he figured I would just have the co2 bottle inside with my kegs. But I want to put it outside because as you can see, I have a dual tower so 2 kegs will be in at all times.
First off, is it better to have the co2 inside?
if not, what is the best way to take off the clamps and run the line back in then re attach everything? It looks clamped down for good.

Does everything look ok to you inside the tower?

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On tap at the LAB.

Winter Warmer - 5.4%
Amber's Sister Ale - 5.3%

Coming up -Dunkel
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shunt
 
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Re: My new best friend...Mr. Kegerator with pics

Tue May 06, 2008 8:22 am

shunt wrote:It is my understanding that my regulator is on the outside attached the the co2 bottle and the tubing then goes inside the kegerator.
I think he figured I would just have the co2 bottle inside with my kegs. But I want to put it outside because as you can see, I have a dual tower so 2 kegs will be in at all times.
First off, is it better to have the co2 inside?


You can keep the CO2 inside or out. It doesn't matter at all. If you need the room, then definitely outside, but either way is cool. If you keep the canister inside, it will read slightly lower pressure on the regulator. That doesn't really matter though either. You'll know when the canister is low when the needle drops out :)

shunt wrote:if not, what is the best way to take off the clamps and run the line back in then re attach everything? It looks clamped down for good.


Those look like stepless ear clamps (?). I am not sure the best way to remove them, but, if you cut them off or cut the tubing off, you can just get hose clamps to replace. the tube should be in tight enough to keep it there without. However, the hose clamps can't hurt.

Good deal man, congrats on the kegerator.
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TampaBrew
 
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Tue May 06, 2008 8:36 am

Can't really tell, but if that's a regular tee on the gas line replace it with anti-backflow valves.
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BrewTa2
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Tue May 06, 2008 9:19 am

+1 on the backflow valves, and the use of new hose clamps. Even if it doesn't seem that you have a leak - you eventually will if you don't put clamps on there.

If you every want to run your kegs at two different pressures - you will need a manifold with LP regulators on there. You only need one that has the high pressure one on there (the one you currently have). Go to the micromatic site and you will see all kinds of goodies that you might want.

I would suggest that you keep this kegerator someplace air conditioned (not the garage). Otherwise you might need an air blower to blow cool air up the tower. You need to keep the beer cold all the way to the tap.

Finally, I would suggest swapping out those taps with either Ventamatics or Perlicks (ie. "forward sealing"). The cheap ones keep a little beer in them after you finish pouring - with tends to get sticky and nasty.


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Wed May 07, 2008 11:25 am

THANKS for all your help!

Not too sure what backflow valves you guys mean? I went out and got new hose clamps. I have some cutting to do.
I do plan on moving the kegerator to the basement. Not only for cooler temperatures but the garage is dusty as hell.

I also just purchased 2 new Ventamatic taps.

I do plan on having the co2 bottle on the outside. I went to my local brewshop today to get my new kegs, but only one left. So I will wait 2 weeks for my 2nd one. No big deal. Anyway, they do not usually fill your CO2 tanks, but I think since I'm one of the very few that actually speaks English, and the main guy there is English, he said he would fill them up for me.
PLUS, I was not aware that you had to bring the tank in very cold, so he said he would take care of that too. Nice guy.

So, tomorrow I will fill up my new keg , after washing and sanitizing, with my hefe. Here is where I need some more help...
I was told of 2 ways of doing this.
fill keg with beer. chill beer. Insert gas line and carb to 40, rock and roll it for 5 minutes then it should be ready in an hour.

or

fill keg, chill, insert gas line, carb to 20-25? then let sit for 3 days. After it will be ready.

opinions?

here is the new keg.

Image

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On tap at the LAB.

Winter Warmer - 5.4%
Amber's Sister Ale - 5.3%

Coming up -Dunkel
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shunt
 
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Wed May 07, 2008 11:42 am

You can buy one of these to take care of backflow:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/16388/102238
or these (the first thing on the page)
http://northernbrewer.com/gas-handling.html

you run your gas into the end and split it to the 2 kegs. The backflow makes sure that no beer gets into your CO2 tank or the other keg. There's a lot of flow and pressure going on in kegging and things can get backed up. a good precautionary measure.

As far as I know, you don't have to chill the tank. is that what you meant by that?

That keg is so perfect and clean :)
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Wed May 07, 2008 11:53 am

Everyone has their own method of carbonating, depends on how quickly you want to drink it. If you're in no hurry, put the keg in the keggerator, set the pressure to serving pressure (usually between 10-14 psi) and let it sit for a week. If you want to drink it tonight, hook up the gas in line, turn the pressure up to 30 psi, sit in a chair with the keg across your kees and rock it back and forth for 15-20 minutes. Turn the pressure down to serving pressure and let it chill. If the beer is already cold it will carbonate quicker, but it'll be ready to go.
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Wed May 07, 2008 12:17 pm

Sheen wrote:Everyone has their own method of carbonating, depends on how quickly you want to drink it. If you're in no hurry, put the keg in the keggerator, set the pressure to serving pressure (usually between 10-14 psi) and let it sit for a week. If you want to drink it tonight, hook up the gas in line, turn the pressure up to 30 psi, sit in a chair with the keg across your kees and rock it back and forth for 15-20 minutes. Turn the pressure down to serving pressure and let it chill. If the beer is already cold it will carbonate quicker, but it'll be ready to go.


Shunt, you got the right idea, get it cold, then carb. SHeen pretty much nailed it all on the head.
If you really want to get picky, theres all sorts of carb charts out theree. Heres one i googled real quick. Put the keg in the fridge, get it cold, figure out what ammount of carb you want, find the psi, hook it up at that psi, and let it set for a couple weeks. Thats the long way, but works good.

Ive done both ways and they both work, but usually im too impatient and want a taste or have to have it ready for a party or friends, so I usually end up setting it at 30 psi, and rockin and roll it.

on another note, heres what i do for kegging. I first purge the whole keg with co2, then put my racking cane into my orange fermcap, hook tubing up to the other cane end, and on the end of the hose a black beer out QD. THen i hook up a gas line from the CO2 tank to the other fermcap tube. Open the relief valve on the keg (have the keg lower than the carboy), turn your PSI down to about 2-4 psi, and open it up to push the beer into your keg. When all your beer is out of the fermenter, close up your relief valve, and hit the keg with an extra shot of CO2 to seat everything.

ok that was kinda long. sorry
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