First Keg

[bcmaui]

And as far as your apparent attenuation is concerned - you are at 72% right now (66-18/66). Certainly not shabby. You didn't mention yeast strain, but I am assuming WLP001 which is usually up >= 75%.

Yes - WLP001. I'll check White Labs and Wyeast websites - I would imagine they have a table which indicates what each strain's apparent attenuation is. I've heard it mentioned in detail on the recent Brew Strong, but once you use it yourself it makes better sense.

What temp did you mash at?

Was an extract brew, so don't think that applies? Steeped the grains for 30 minutes in the full boil volume. And the half hour was 80F-160F. Next time for I will use less water for the steep and wait until water gets up to 150F or so before starting the 30 minutes.

Holding the temp at a constant is a tricky thing over time. I now understand why an insulated cooler is a good mash tun. With a single burner / kettle is it better to have a low flame to keep temps constant, or turn the fire on and off. I can see why some type of heat exchanger into the mash tun would be a more precise way to control temps than the flame underneath.

Oh, and BTW - if you overshoot your OG in the future (and you have the headspace), you can top off with some sanitized water.

OK - Will need to get better at this and imagine it is key for all grain as you gravity is always dropping as you sparge and frequent checks might be in order. Also makes sense why you want a refractometer - much less wasteful in the wort you use to take samples.

+1 a spray bottle of starsan is your friend....

I did pick that up and topped up 2 spray bottles with freshly mixed star-san when I made my first batch. Sprayed the barb on the ball valve before attaching my transfer tubing after cooling the wort down. Figure it is not good to have regular tubing connected during the 60 minute boil as it is not temp rated. Will fix that with high temp hose and a march pump so I can try the recirc / whirlpool method that will also sanitize the transfer tubing. Is there a prefered orientation for the march pump (i.e. inlet pointing up or down or sideways?). From what I can see in photos I think most folks have the inlet pointing down and outlet pointing up - is there a reason for this?

[Mylo]

Theoretically, the orientation shouldn't matter if you don't have any air leaks. However, on my last brew it did seem to make a difference to point the intake down - so I did.

You don't really have any control over the fermentability of extract - some are more fermentable then others. That's one reason to go to all grain. You could add Beeno, but that will dry it out too much. Steeping grains is just about rinsing the premade sugars from the husks (and some flavors/colors from the roasted stuff) - so all you have to worry about is tannins. I doubt that Tasty would approve of too much Crystal in his kit. Mr. Malty calculator said that you should have used 2.5 vials to be ideal without a starter. I think your beer is going to be just fine. Just warm slightly and rouse.


Mylo

[Sent From My iPhone]

The nice thing about using a refractometer when doing all grain is you are able to check your gravity at all points of brewing, particularly pre-boil. When you've dialed in your boil-off rate you'll know if you have to add water or DME at the beginning of the boil and you have a better chance of hitting your numbers. This is particularly important because it allows you to adjust your hop additions and keeps your beer in balance. Man, I can't wait to brew Saturday (Community Brew and a Triple, starters are stirrring away)

[bcmaui]

Looks like Wednesday will change from hump-day to yeast-starter-day for Saturday brews for me in the not to distant future as well. Stir plate and flasks have been ordered a few months ago and should be here soon.