Sat May 26, 2007 4:14 am

Thirsty, it doesn't matter much what the CO2 regulator is set to - the lp reg is like a second stage - it drops the pressure down to about 0.4 psig.

Yesterday I stopped and picked one up along with a couple of barbed fittings. I put this in one of my CO2 lines and hooked up to a keg of water, which was in turn connected to my beer engine.

I pulled several pints of water thru the engine and everything worked great. As long as the engine is more than 11" above the beer level in the keg the 1/2 psi won't push the beer out. When I disconnect the co2 and pull a few pints, it gets harder and harder because its trying to pull a vacuum on the keg. Pop the co2 disconnect back on and it tops off the keg with co2, but doesn't pressurize it enough to push the beer out. My total cost was $20.41 USD.

So it is working just like I had hoped. I don't see a need for an adjustable reg - 1/2 psi works just fine. The only difference between this and a real cask breather is that any excess pressure generated by 'unfinished' beer would not be vented off. If I can find an appropriate pressure relief valve I can tee that into the output of the lp regulator and then it will work just like a $90 cask breather.
Steve
SteveJ
 
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Location: Johnson City, Tennessee

Tue May 29, 2007 3:22 am

Goober n Steve .....
Top one... BIAB......
NOW Lets see the 300+ posts on this subject....
Cheers
PJ ... :D
Who needs Kegs or Bottles...Straight from the Fermenter...IS THE GO..
poppa joe
 
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Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:34 pm

Sewing up my bag tommorrow, got my first BiaB next weekend.
He was a wise man who invented beer
-Plato-
Black Forest Man
 
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Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:35 pm

Sewing up my bag tommorrow, got my first BiaB next weekend.
He was a wise man who invented beer
-Plato-
Black Forest Man
 
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Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:22 pm

Most excellent Black Forest Man,

Any questions, feel free to PM me. Let us know how it goes (pictures??)


SteveJ - have you had a crack at BIAB yet?

Goober - How have your beers turned out?? OK, not bad, not so great? And you were going to do a talk to your local Home brew club. How'd that go?

Thirsty
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:17 am

Thirsty Boy wrote:Most excellent Black Forest Man,
Goober - How have your beers turned out?? OK, not bad, not so great? And you were going to do a talk to your local Home brew club. How'd that go?
Thirsty


I have been doing the notes writeup on the BIAB for my club and organizing my pics, but I won't do the talk until September at least. Maybe August if I get everything together.

The beers have turned out well. I have been missing my gravity on the last couple of brews (a Rye Ale and a Scottish light) because the bag won't drain. It's become kind of a pain. I think that the bag material has become a little clogged with fine particles. No matter what I do or how long I wait, the last couple of gallons just won't drain.

I went to the big box store near me and bought another couple of yards of a more open weave for $1 a yard and made a new bag. It is more like a jelly bag and I know it will drain faster. I just hope that it doesn't throw too many "fines" through the mesh and make cloudy beer from boiling all of that protein. My next beer in rotation is a Saison, which can have a little cloudiness and is boosted with sugar, so it is an ideal recipe to try with. Ill be doing that brew in late July, I am leaving for 3 weeks of vacation this weekend, so no brewing in July, just drinking.

Doesn't everyone pack 2 cases of beer when they go away on vacation?

For the beers that I have brewed in a bag, the beers have turned out well. My wit was great! My porter is dark and sweet and caramely with just a touch of molassas. My Russian Imperial Stout is still very young, but it is coming along great. I just bottled some Rye ale and my Scottish has a nice smokey aspect that I can't wait to get into. The beers aren't any better or worse than my 3-tier brews. They sure take less time to brew and clean though. And less running around fiddling with stuff.

I can't wait to try my new bag. If I can get the draining process down to a couple of minutes instead of 45 minutes, and keep my efficiency high and my suspended solids low, I will be a happy camper.
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GooberMcNutly
 
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Location: Central Florida

Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:04 am

Hey Goober.

Its great to hear that the beers have turned out well.

No better and no worse than your three tier system is just the sort of general feedback I like to hear... the beer is roughly the same, so people can feel free to choose the method based on its other features, not its ability or lack of, to make good beer.


If you change to a less tight weave on your fabric, it will probably be a bit of give and take. I and others (but not all) have noticed that you do get a more cloudy wort with BIAB. One pass through the bag just cant quite live up to the complex path filtering of a mash bed. It seems that the only effect that people have noticed from this so far is an increase in the amount of break/trub in the kettle at the end of the boil. I'm not sure if there is actually more, or if some of the fine particles that gt through, simply make the trub settle out less effectively. But I seem to lose a bit more wort to the kettle losses than when I so a batch sparge brew.

Then again, in your case, you will be getting back a few liters that you have been leaving behind in your bag. Lately I have recalculated my wort lost to grain ratio, and its now set for only 0.5 liters per kilogram of grain (thats 7.7ounces per pound in prehistoric measurements. I think) which seems to be about what other BIABers in Oz are getting.

I suppose it will also depend on how people are separating trub and if they are using hop socks, leaf hops vs pellets etc. But its possible you will notice a distinct increase in crud levels in the bottom of your kettle. As I said though, no one has noticed a decrease in quality or clarity of Beer as a result.

Also for you and anyone else thinking about sewing up a new bag. A newer design has been tested and found to be a bit better. If the bags are sewed up like a sleeping bag cover, they drain better and there is less chance of spillage over the side when pulling out of the pot. Another BIABer solved this problem by sewing across the corners of his "pillow slip" style bag to give it a bit of a streamlined shape at the bottom.

Heres a pic of the "Sleeping Bag Cover" style bag in operation. Just so you can see the general shape it takes when its hanging with grain in. As you can see, its a nice teardrop shape and all the wort runs down and goes in the pot, instead of running in a stream off corners and onto the ground etc

Image

Also, since I first posted this article, I have discovered that many of the people who are brewing BIAB are also using the No-Chill method thus cutting another hour or so off their brewday, them not requiring a chiller, not wasting water; and freeing them up to ferment their wort at a later date of their choosing, rather than being confined to pitching yeast on the same day as you brew. I pitched yeast onto a Barley wine two weeks ago that I brewed on Apr 22.

I have tasted a number of beers that were both BIABed and No-Chilled. They were fine. So if its time you are looking to save...
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:20 am

It's the suspended wheat and barley solids that I really want to remove. Solids contain proteins not converted by enzymes, which lead to proteins in the beer which make for a murky beer. Hop trub contains no proteins so I don't really worry about that, it will settle out in the fermenter. It is my hope that a good boil will link up the proteins into hot break so they settle out, but we will see.

Ill check back in when I have done the new bag. I like my tight bag, it is just hard to sparge out of. I wanted to get enough material to do like 4 bags of the lighter stuff and put them inside each other, so I could remove one at a time until I got a good flow rate, but I don't think that it will help all that much. Plus, 2 yards was all of that material they had.
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GooberMcNutly
 
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