When I'm transferring off of a dry hopped beer, I set things up such that the racking cane is sitting well above the trub. I'll watch the siphon as the liquid level drops and move the racking cane around slightly to avoid trub/dry hop if needed. Hope that helps!

Also, if you're not cold crashing before transferring out of the carboy, give it a try. It makes a HUGE difference as nearly all of the hop matter will drop to the bottom just like magic. Then you can rack nearly clear beer into your keg or bottling bucket. Just don't leave the beer cold in the carboy for more than 24 - 48 hours because it will start to extract wacky shit out of the hops.

Quote: Also, if you're not cold crashing before transferring out of the carboy, give it a try. It makes a HUGE difference as nearly all of the hop matter will drop to the bottom just like magic. Then you can rack nearly clear beer into your keg or bottling bucket. Just don't leave the beer cold in the carboy for more than 24 - 48 hours because it will start to extract wacky shit out of the hops.

Can anyone elaborate on the wacky part of this comment? This is new info to me and I'm interested to know more, since I've been cold crashing lately.

I just mean that at cold temps you extract different character from hops than you do at warm temps. (Well, there's a whole spectrum of this - the character is different depending on the temp.) I think most people prefer the character obtained from dry hopping in the mid to high 60s, whereas at the low 40s or even 30s you get a ton more "grassy" character and other less desirable things. I've spoken to many brewers who agree and I've proven it in my own brewery a few times. Now, with a beer that has already gone through a good dry hop period (5 - 10 days) most of the character is already extracted but you can still get some grassy & harsh notes if you leave it cold for too long after this. A couple days won't hurt you but just saying that if you leave it cold crashed for a week or more it'll change the flavor to something you might not like as much.

Just reporting back on this recipe, albeit with my changes as listed in the previous post.

In short, this is an awesome, dank and resinous ipa. I carbed my version 2 days ago, which means it has a ways to go, but wow, what a mouthful of hops that finishes with a truckload of grapefruit. Very impressed, and as I'm trying to find a standard west coast style grain bill base, this one may be it. Great recipe.

Mine is finally carbed and ready to drink. Brewed on 1/19 and it's been kegged for just about 2 weeks. Still fairly cloudy, debating adding some gelatin to clear it up a bit. Do you guys find beers with this much dry hop to take longer if ever to clear?

I left mine on all the dry hops except for the Simcoe for the 5 days, then keg hopped with the simcoe until it kicked maybe 3 weeks later. I used Nottingham dry yeast (sac relig I know) fermented at 59f. Even with e dry hops suspended in a bag, it cleared up after 2 weeks. By far the most pungent IPA I've ever brewed. Keg went out way too early.

I recently listened to the CYBI episode where the Dankness was discussed as a ProAm beer, and the malt bill that Nate gave was slightly different (so slightly).

81% Pale Malt
10% Pilsner
6% Crystal 15
3% Carapils

Is this this a more up to date version of your recipe? If so, is there a noticeable difference by bumping the grains and subtracting the sugar (or no difference, thus no reason to mess with the sugar)?

Also, I am having trouble figuring out a way to add hops in BeerSmith2 by IBU. If I mess with the weights and get the IBU down to 18IBUs per 60 min and 30 min addition, BeerSmith gives me a ~38IBU for the entire beer. Isn't the beer supposed to be in the 70IBU range? Will I pull ~30IBUs from the flame out and dry hop additions that BeerSmith isn't calculating?

Sounds like a tasty beer, I am thinking of attempting this as my first AG batch.

JER
Corp Meister