Shanks for warm weather serving

[DannyW]

I dropped this in chat last night, but had to leave before I saw any answers, so I apologize if I missed an answer already.

I'm building a collar for a 7.2cf chest freezer. This freezer will be in a very hot, humid location pretty much all the time. I have 8" shanks and 2" shanks available. Is there any benefit/detriment of one over the other?

One one hand, the long shank seems like it would keep the faucets cold better, so the first few pints would pour better. OTOH, the long shanks may just be a conduit for drawing heat into the freezer and making the faucets drip constantly with condensation. Long shanks would also be less convenient when moving stuff around the freezer.

The short shanks are pretty much the opposite of the above points. Less heat intrusion, but warmer faucets. They are more out of the way for moving kegs in and out of the freezer.

So if you had a choice, what would you pick?

[bub]

My wife might say go for the long shank, but I'm fine with my 2 inchers...
Oh God this will go sooo badly for me.
BUB

[zymurgest]

A buddy of mine built a complete frame around the top of his chest freezer, and set the lid on top. The wood frame has the faucets coming out through the wood, and I think they might be 8" shanks, but I didn't measure them. The wood is like 2X6 all the way round, so could be 8" or larger. He now has *TEN* faucets from which to draw upon. Too bad he only has 5 cornies

Prost!

Michel

[macgruffus]

Do like we all do ...

Use the 2" ones but swear they're 6"

[DannyW]

Oh you guys are a riot! don't give up your day job, mmmK?

Since no physicist or engineer has piped up to tell me why the thermal mass behind the faucets would help, I think I will give the 2" a try for the space savings.

BTW I found some PVC boards at the hardware store to make this collar. I think they are made for decorative trimming around windows and such. In addition to fancy moldings and such, they have plain 1"x6"x8' that cut real easy, work with the same PVC glue that you use with pipes, and 70% better insulation than wood (so the brochure says). Of course it shouldn't rot or warp either.

[macgruffus]

Oh you guys are a riot! don't give up your day job, mmmK?

Hey! If we can't laugh at ourselves ... right?

BTW I found some PVC boards at the hardware store to make this collar.

Awesome idea! I'm getting ready to build a collar on a freezer too and never even thought about using something like this. I found info on the web for Azek Products. This look like what you have? They even have sheets I can use as a longer front "apron" for drip trays, etc.

David

[Thirsty Mallard]

I have a chest freezer with a collar and I don't see the purpose of an 8" shank. I have a 4" shank which goes through the 2X4 and 1X4 and leaves a little room for a compression nut without alot of extra shank.

I have never had a problem with a undercooled pint or any flavor defects that I can taste.

Another consideration is you space consideration. Even with my shanks just coming out enough to fit the compression nut, it leaves the barbs in the way for loading/unloading kegs. Basically, I have to take out the back kegs to take out the front ones. I would imagine 8" shanks would make this even more of a hassle.

[macgruffus]

Another consideration is you space consideration. Even with my shanks just coming out enough to fit the compression nut, it leaves the barbs in the way for loading/unloading kegs. Basically, I have to take out the back kegs to take out the front ones. I would imagine 8" shanks would make this even more of a hassle.

With my freezer, I'm putting the taps over the part of the freezer that's higher (where the compressor is) since I can't put a keg there anyway.

David