Beer Forum

I have a Russian Imperial that I am going to bottle condition. It has been fermenting for about a month and is now currently cold crashing. Should I add more yeast for bottleing? If I add yeast from a saved slurry how much to use or should I just use a vial? Thanks in advance abd cheers.

dstar26t wrote:http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf

Do you use the same yeast rates for lagers and ales? Does it matter what kind of yeast is used, as in English, California, Hefe, Champagne, etc . . . . .??

Fugglupagus wrote:

dstar26t wrote:http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf

Do you use the same yeast rates for lagers and ales? Does it matter what kind of yeast is used, as in English, California, Hefe, Champagne, etc . . . . .??

dstar26t thanks for the doc,most helpful. Thanks.

Fugglupagus, I use wlp002. I have about 500ML of saved slurry. I don't use the same yeast rates for lagers and ales. I ues Mr. Malty's pitching rate calculator for determining what I should pitch.

Thanks and cheers.

Sorry, my questions were pretty vague. I guess that’s what happens when I’m thinking about brewing beer instead of “working”.

I was wondering about the yeast pitching rates Northern Brewer recommends at bottling time. They don’t seem to make a distinction between ales and lagers.

Mr. Malty recommends twice as much yeast for lager fermentation than for ales. Would the same hold true for adding yeast to lagers at bottling time? Should the amount of lager yeast added at bottling time be double the amount Northern Brewer suggests??

I keep some packets of dry yeast around for pitching into my bottling bucket. I’ve been trying to match the dry yeast type as close as I can to the type of yeast used for fermentation. For instance I fermented NB’s Innkeeper with Wyeast 1469 West Yorkshire Ale and pitched Safale S-04 Whitbread at bottling. Is this necessary? Or could I use any dried yeast and not worry about affecting the character of the beer once it’s in the bottle?

Fugglupagus wrote:Sorry, my questions were pretty vague. I guess that’s what happens when I’m thinking about brewing beer instead of “working”.

I was wondering about the yeast pitching rates Northern Brewer recommends at bottling time. They don’t seem to make a distinction between ales and lagers.

Mr. Malty recommends twice as much yeast for lager fermentation than for ales. Would the same hold true for adding yeast to lagers at bottling time? Should the amount of lager yeast added at bottling time be double the amount Northern Brewer suggests??

I keep some packets of dry yeast around for pitching into my bottling bucket. I’ve been trying to match the dry yeast type as close as I can to the type of yeast used for fermentation. For instance I fermented NB’s Innkeeper with Wyeast 1469 West Yorkshire Ale and pitched Safale S-04 Whitbread at bottling. Is this necessary? Or could I use any dried yeast and not worry about affecting the character of the beer once it’s in the bottle?

Chapter 11 in How to Brew is a great reference for priming and bottling. Page 113 gives you volumes of Co2 for each style. As far as the lager question I am not sure, I have never bottle conditioned a lager. It is somethin I will research.

During bottle conditioning, the yeast are fermenting priming (a.k.a. simple) sugar at warmer temperatures. This is relatively easy work for any yeast. There's no need to vary your repitching rate based on using lager or ale yeast.

I always keep it simple and just add a few grams of a 5 gram packet of EC-1118 Lalvin Champagne yeast. It is highly alcohol tolerant, a good floculator, and can ferment quickly in low pH environments (think fermented beer). Within 7 days (at most), my high ABV% beers are always perfectly carbonated using this method with no worries.