How do I get rid of chill haze?

[Shivers]

Hi everyone:

I made my first batch of beer and it was JZ's Blonde Ale. It turned out great except that it had chill haze. I know this is more of an asthetics problem but I would like to try to get rid of it.

I just brewed my second batch of beer (also JZ's Blonde Ale) and would like to try to get rid off chill haze. I did a full wort boil and chilled it down with my immersion chiller but since I am just using a turkey fryer pot, I end up pouring everything into my primary fermentor (that is, I don't leave any of the cold break? material behind). Is this the cause of my chill haze?

After my fermentation is completed (2 wks) I am thinking of cooling my beer down as cold as I can get it for about 1 week. Then bottling. Will this solve my problem? Do I have to bring the temp back up to 70F before I bottle or can I just bottle at that cold temp? Is there enough yeast left to carbonate the bottles if I cool it down or does it all go to the bottom of the fermentor?

thanks,

[brewinhard]

Chill haze can be a real pain in the ass when constantly searching for that killer beer (clarity appeal!). You had a great idea when you stated to chill your finished beer for a week. Best to do it in the range of 34-40 degrees. This should drop a lot of your proteins out of suspension givning you a clearer beer. Also be careful when racking from primary to a carboy/bottling bucket so extra trub is not picked up. You will have to let the beer warm up to room temp. before attempting to bottle so the remaining yeast can carbonate your delicious brew. Don't be alarmed if one week is not enough. If you are using CAl-ale yeast (1056, Us-o5) to ferment your blondes that yeast takes a long time to clear up nicely. I keg most of my brew and have had to wait sometimes a minimum of 3 wks. for the kegs to be clear at 40 degrees. There should be more than enough yeast remaining in suspension after 1 week of chilling to bottle carbonate your beer. I will sometimes add a fresh packet of rehydrated yeast to the priming sugar in my bottling bucket before racking to ensure a quick carbonation (less than 1 wk) if I cold condition for an extended period of time (4 wks) or am bottling an 8% or greater beer (tired yeast).

[Shivers]

Thanks for the info....How about Isanglas in the bottling bucket? I read in "How to brew" that this might get rid of chill haze also. If I use this does this mean that I would not have to "lager" my beer for a week? or should I do both?

thanks

Shivers

[Sent From My iPhone]

Just curious, why do you think it's chill haze? Does it go away as the beer warms up? Most beers are hazy at first but will clear up given time.

[Shivers]

I think that it might be chill haze because before I put it in the fridge it looks pretty clear in the brown plastic bottles but as I pour the cold beer in my glass, it is hazey. I don't know if it goes away when it warms up as the beer never lasts that long!

I am open to suggestions though, Is there some way to tell if it is chill haze or just a cloudy beer that hasn't settled properly?

[andy77]

I think that it might be chill haze because before I put it in the fridge it looks pretty clear in the brown plastic bottles but as I pour the cold beer in my glass, it is hazey. I don't know if it goes away when it warms up as the beer never lasts that long!

I am open to suggestions though, Is there some way to tell if it is chill haze or just a cloudy beer that hasn't settled properly?

Leave the last bit in the glass and let it sit while you drink the next one.

[Spidey]

Add Whirlfloc to your boil (1 tablet/5gal 15' to end of boil). Chilling the beer for a month will give a crystal clear result. I mean like pilsner-clear. If it is indeed chill-haze, as soon as the beer warms up, the proteins are solublized again and you're back to square-one. It needs to be cold in order to separate the beer from the hazing-causing proteins (i.e. you could rack the chilled beer). Yes, you need to warm the beer up for bottle priming to occur. The yeast won't carbonate the beer at cold temps because 1) there won't be any yeast left in suspension after the chill-haze removal and 2) yeast aren't active at low temperatures.

Why is this topic in "Fermentation" anyway? Because of the bottling part? Maybe move to "Bottling/Kegging"?