Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:17 am

I was reading Dr. Scott's How To Page. He talks about using showerboard for in the fridge door. I went to my local Home Depot and the 2 guys had no idea what showerboard is. What is it, what does it look like?
Also, Dr. Scott says you 1" PVC for support for your faucets. The store has a 2-2/12 feet section of 1.5" PVC. I am assuming, I know... don't assume anything, that the 1.5" PVC will be fine, am I right?
Dr. Scott said use plywood for a floor to get around the compressor. How thick should the plywood be? At most and at one time I would have only 20 gallons of beer, 15 in cornies and 5 in a glass carboy, with a 5 lb. CO2 tank.
Thanks in advance. :drink
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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:58 am

Garrete wrote:I was reading Dr. Scott's How To Page. He talks about using showerboard for in the fridge door. I went to my local Home Depot and the 2 guys had no idea what showerboard is. What is it, what does it look like?


It looks like a combination of tile and linoleum. Probably made out of fiberglass. It's waterproof (designed to be use as the finish walls in a shower - if you were too cheap to tile it). It's about 1/4" thick, I thing.

Garrete wrote:Also, Dr. Scott says you 1" PVC for support for your faucets. The store has a 2-2/12 feet section of 1.5" PVC. I am assuming, I know... don't assume anything, that the 1.5" PVC will be fine, am I right?


Nope... 1.5" will be too big. You want the black plastic flange of the shank to cover it - and you want the I.D. only big enough for the shank itself.

Garrete wrote:Dr. Scott said use plywood for a floor to get around the compressor. How thick should the plywood be?


I'd recommend 3/4". 1/2" is too springy for that amount of weight.



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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:37 am

MyloFiore wrote:Nope... 1.5" will be too big. You want the black plastic flange of the shank to cover it - and you want the I.D. only big enough for the shank itself.

If the shank is 4" long, how big is the shank itself? From the pictures, it looks like it is not very big.

MyloFiore wrote:I'd recommend 3/4". 1/2" is too springy for that amount of weight.

If I would have re-read what the good Doc wrote, I would have seen the 3/4" plywood myself. *smacks head*
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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:26 pm

The shanks are 7/8" OD. The black plastic flange is 2 1/8" OD, but the nut on the back is only 1.5" OD. You would have to put a big ass washer on the back to grab the PVC. I think you have to bite the bullet and buy the 1".


Mylo
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"HEINEKEN? Fuck that shit! Pabst Blue Ribbon!!!" - Dennis Hopper, in Blue Velvet
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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sat Jul 26, 2008 4:02 pm

Wow that is an awesome article. I hope Doc does a new one soon. This is an excellent way for us to learn about cool brewing gadgets. Maybe Justin could incorporate these articles into the newsletter.
I think I've had about enough beer tonight...Now I need some Whiskey to sober up
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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sun Jul 27, 2008 5:57 am

One more thing, is there a good length the tubing from the kegs to the faucets should be, other than long enough to open the door?
I remember Doc talking about losing pressure the longer the line. Unless I am wrong, happens a lot, I would not think that it would matter in my case.

Is showerboard the same as whiteboard.
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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:32 am

oneal66 wrote:Wow that is an awesome article. I hope Doc does a new one soon. This is an excellent way for us to learn about cool brewing gadgets. Maybe Justin could incorporate these articles into the newsletter.



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Re: Dr. Scott's Kegerator

Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:56 am

Brew Engineer wrote:
oneal66 wrote:Wow that is an awesome article. I hope Doc does a new one soon. This is an excellent way for us to learn about cool brewing gadgets. Maybe Justin could incorporate these articles into the newsletter.



Wise-ass!

:D


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