Beer Forum

I'm trying to brew up Tasty's recipe from Jamil's American IPA show for my first mini-mash. My notes from the show are:

12 gal recipe
weight ingrediant percentage
28 US 2-row 82.4
2 US carapils 5.9
2 US 60 carmel 5.9
1 US 120 carmel 2.9
1 US munich 10L 2.9
1.5 chinook 11%AA mash hop pellet
1 chinook 11%AA 60 pellet
4 centennial 9.9 15 pellet
4 cascade 6.7 5 whole
4 cascade 6.7 hop back whole
2 chinook 11%AA dry hopped
2 centennial 9.9 dry hopped 4 bubbles a min in a submerged sack
2 cascade 6.7 dry hopped


I used his recipe from the show, using Beer Smith to scale down to a 5.25 gal batch and converting to mini-mash. Then adjusted the amounts to make measurement cleaner. How does it look? Do you think the malt sweetness/hop balance seems appropriate? I don't have a hop-back...so I was just going to add at flameout instead.

Type: Partial Mash
Batch Size: 5.25 gal
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (5 gal) and Igloo Cooler (10 Gal)
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00

Ingredients:
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.30 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 27.27 %
3.30 lb Pale Liquid Extract [Boil for 15 min] Extract 27.27 %
2.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 20.66 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 8.26 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 8.26 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0SRM) Grain 4.13 %
0.50 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 4.13 %
1.00 oz Chinook [11.00 %] (Mash Hop) Hops 7.7 IBU
0.75 oz Chinook [11.00 %] (60 min) Hops 28.7 IBU
1.50 oz Centennial [9.90 %] (15 min) Hops 13.8 IBU
1.50 oz Cascade [6.70 %] (5 min) Hops 5.8 IBU
1.50 oz Cascade [6.70 %] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
0.75 oz Chinook [11.00 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
0.75 oz Centennial [9.90 %] (Dry Hop 5 days) Hops -
6.84 gal Salt Lake City, UT Water
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale w/ 2L starter

Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.069 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.015 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 6.99%
Bitterness: 62.1 IBU Calories: 319 cal/pint
Est Color: 17.2 SRM

Mash Profile
Mash Name: Single Infusion,
Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 5.50 lb

Sparge Water: 2.99 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE
Mash PH: 5.4 PH
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 6.88 qt of water at 170.1 F 154.0 F

Welcome to the forum.

You've pretty much nailed it. I like how you've included some two-row in the mash. Your SRM is a little high but the beer would be fine a little darker (redder) or you could back down a little on the Crystal 120. Substituting the flameout addition for the hopback is good. Looks like a tasty beer to me.

Tasty

BTW the recipe, although you have it correct, is under category 14b here: http://beerdujour.com/RecipeIndex.htm

Thanks Tasty! A quick reply from the man himself. I really appreciate what you and everyone else at BN are doing. Its helped me make (and drink) much better beer. I live in Utah, so getting a beer like SN's celebration is a rare thing, though there are some excellent beers...just not as fresh or the variety I would like. I've got John's book on order...

I think I will follow your advice and back off on the crystal 120 a little. Closer to 1/3 lb than 1/2. I don't care too much if the color is off, I just fear getting it too sweet. I don't have fermentation control or any oxygenation system, my beers tend to not attenuate as low as predicted, but I'm getting better at it. I think my version here is a little hoppier (I add a little more than 1/4 oz more to address this and the fact that the boil will be more concentrated.)

The recipe link helps too, as my ibu calculation was coming up way short of ~80 ibu. Turns out that the mash addition was not getting calculated in beer smith the same as your recipe.

If it turns out I'll send you a couple bottles.

The BN is a coming together of people who think homebrewing is the greatest hobby ever. Turns out to be a really laid back and mutually respecting bunch of people.

I wouldn't back down too much on the 120 as a big part of the character of this beer is the 120 contrasting with the unique Chinook bitterness. You may want to back the mash temperature down to 153 or 152 if you're willing to give up some mouthfeel in exchange for fermentability. That said, it's a pretty hoppy beer so a higher FG just puts the beer more towards balanced instead of hop forward.

Good attenuation is what we strive for and oxygenation is an important part of that so I'd shake the carboy really well and pitch an oversized starter. If possible, I'd try to ferment around a constant as possible 68F and slowly raise it to about 72F when it's about 90% complete. Also, I'd roust the yeast by shaking the fermenter every couple of days once fermentation slows. Some yeast nutrient in the boil would be a good idea.

Tasty

If that is the case, I will stick with the amounts I originally posted and see how it brews up, being very nice to the yeast, using your suggestions. I'll have to make it a few times just to get it right!

How do you handle the dry hopping and conditioning? Once you are done dry hopping do you pull the hops out and let it condition for a while at 55 or do you cool it down? I'm using glass carboys and kegs--which means I cant use a sack in the fermenter--they will be freehoppin. So after a week of dry hopping, and I'm happy with the beer, would it then be best to keg it and stick it in the fridge for a couple of weeks? I assume you hold the temp at 72 while dry hopping?

Also, just curious, why the munich malt? What does that add to the beer--color, flavor? I don't have much experience with it and never have seen it in an IPA before. Just trying to understand the recipe, not just brew it.

Anyway, thanks again for your help.

The Munich helps provide some maltiness and a bit of complexity to it. This is a HOPPY beer, and you need the complexity to help provide contrast to the hops. Otherwise, it can taste somewhat 1 dimensional. That is the same reason he uses both crystal 60 (carmelly) and crystal 120 (somewhat bittersweet).

HTH-

Good attenuation is what we strive for and oxygenation is an important part of that so I'd shake the carboy really well and pitch an oversized starter. If possible, I'd try to ferment around a constant as possible 68F and slowly raise it to about 72F when it's about 90% complete. Also, I'd roust the yeast by shaking the fermenter every couple of days once fermentation slows. Some yeast nutrient in the boil would be a good idea.

Tasty[/quote]

I am new to this and have been listening and reading as much as possible. What is considered and "Oversized Starter"? Is that 2 vials versus one? From what I can get from things, you can also put too much. I invested in a stir plate and flask just to play around but I have not had much luck finding a show on starters. Any help where to get more info on this and more specificallly, quantity relationships of yeast to a batch?

Thanks

808brew wrote:

Juicy McNugget wrote:Good attenuation is what we strive for and oxygenation is an important part of that so I'd shake the carboy really well and pitch an oversized starter. If possible, I'd try to ferment around a constant as possible 68F and slowly raise it to about 72F when it's about 90% complete. Also, I'd roust the yeast by shaking the fermenter every couple of days once fermentation slows. Some yeast nutrient in the boil would be a good idea.

Tasty

I am new to this and have been listening and reading as much as possible. What is considered and "Oversized Starter"? Is that 2 vials versus one? From what I can get from things, you can also put too much. I invested in a stir plate and flask just to play around but I have not had much luck finding a show on starters. Any help where to get more info on this and more specificallly, quantity relationships of yeast to a batch?

Thanks

Fellow 808'er - listen to the below brew strong show:

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/ ... t-Starters

For starting point on amount of yeast try Mr. Malty's caculator

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html